What changed since 2010
If you stopped riding in the early 2010s, the modern bike is unrecognisable. Six changes matter:
- Wheels grew. 26" is gone from the adult market. 27.5" arrived, then 29" became dominant. Most trail and enduro bikes today are 29" or "mullet" (29 front, 27.5 rear).
- Head angles slackened. Modern trail bikes sit at 65–66°, enduro at 63–64°. A 2010 trail bike was 69–70°. Slacker = more stable at speed and on steep descents.
- Reach got longer. Frames are roomier, stems are short (35–50 mm), bars are wide (760–800 mm). The bike fits with you standing on the pedals, not seated.
- Drivetrains went 1×. One chainring at the front, 11–13 speed cassette at the back. Front derailleurs are extinct on new MTBs. Simpler and lighter.
- Dropper posts arrived. A remote-actuated seatpost that drops out the way for descents. Possibly the single biggest "I can't go back" upgrade of the era.
- Tubeless tyres became standard. No more pinch flats, lower pressures, more grip.
Hardtail or full-suspension?
Hardtail
One pivot — your knees. No rear shock. Lighter, cheaper, more efficient pedalling, less to service. A modern hardtail with a 120–140 mm fork, slack geometry and a dropper rides surprisingly hard. For under €1,200 a good hardtail will out-ride a full-sus at the same price every time.
Buy a hardtail if: the budget is under €1,500, you mostly ride non-technical trails, you want to learn line choice, you want fewer service costs, or you live somewhere wet and gritty (Ireland).
Full-suspension
Two shocks, more bike to maintain. Comfortable on long descents, faster on rough ground, kinder to a tired body. Modern designs pedal well enough that the old "full-sus saps your energy" line no longer holds.
Buy a full-sus if: the budget is €2,000+, you ride mostly rough descents, you want maximum comfort, or you have an existing injury (back, wrists) that a hardtail will aggravate.
Travel — how much?
| Travel band | Type | What it's for |
|---|---|---|
| 100–120 mm | XC / down-country | Fast, light, long days, race courses |
| 130–150 mm | Trail | The "do everything" sweet spot for most adults |
| 150–170 mm | All-mountain / enduro | Rough natural trails, bike park weekends, alpine |
| 170–200 mm | Enduro / park | Race enduro, dedicated bike-park days |
| 200+ mm | DH | Uplift only, gravity courses |
For a first modern MTB the answer is almost always 130–150 mm travel.
Wheel size — 29" or mullet?
If you're 175 cm+, the answer is 29" or mullet. A 29" wheel rolls over roots and steps that a 27.5" wheel slams into. Mullet (29F/27.5R) gives the front roll-over but a more playful rear — popular on enduro and aggressive trail bikes.
If you're under 165 cm, look hard at 27.5" — your standover and reach will thank you. Most brands now offer XS/S sizes with a smaller front wheel or full 27.5" sizing.
Dropper post — non-negotiable
If a bike at your budget doesn't have a dropper post, factor in €150–€250 to add one. The first time you hit a steep descent with the saddle out of the way you'll understand. Drop-lengths matter: 150–200 mm is the modern norm; older bikes had 100–125 mm.
Geometry numbers to look for
You don't have to memorise this, but it helps:
- Head angle: 65–66° for trail, 63–64° for enduro. Anything above 67° on a new MTB is old-school.
- Reach: 460–490 mm in a size L for an average 178 cm rider, scaled.
- Seat angle: steeper is better for climbing — 76–78° puts you over the pedals.
- Chainstay: 430–445 mm. Longer is more stable, shorter is more playful.
- Bottom bracket drop: 25–40 mm — more drop = lower COG, harder to pedal-strike.
If the marketing page only gives you "L is for 175–185 cm riders" and no numbers, look at a different bike. Modern MTB brands publish full geometry charts.
Budget bands
€900–€1,400 — quality hardtail
Vitus Sentier, Cube Reaction Pro, Trek Roscoe 7/8, Specialized Rockhopper Comp/Expert, Marin San Quentin, Calibre Line. RockShox Recon or SR Suntour XCR-Air fork, 1×12 Deore, hydraulic brakes, dropper on many. The right bike to learn on.
€1,500–€2,500 — entry full-sus or upgrade hardtail
Vitus Mythique, Polygon Siskiu T8, Calibre Sentry, Marin Rift Zone, Canyon Neuron 5/6 (direct-to-consumer), YT Jeffsy Base. RockShox 35 or Marzocchi Z2 fork, full Deore or SLX, 4-piston brakes, decent dropper. Real bike-park capability.
€2,500+ — competent for years
Canyon Spectral, YT Jeffsy Core 3+, Specialized Stumpjumper Comp, Trek Fuel EX 8, Norco Optic, Orbea Occam. Fox 36 or RockShox Pike, SLX/XT, Code RSC brakes, factory dropper. You'll stop wanting upgrades.
Second-hand market — read carefully
The MTB second-hand market is huge in IE/UK. Pinkbike BuySell, MTB Buy Sell IE (Facebook), Done Deal, eBay UK. Rules:
- Hours, not years. A 3-year-old bike with 80 hours on it is a better buy than a 1-year-old with 400 hours.
- Service history. Ask for receipts for the last fork lower service and shock damper rebuild. Both are due every 100–200 hours and cost €120–€180 each.
- Frame check. Look at the chainstay yoke, downtube under the bottle, swingarm pivots for cracks. Carbon = ultrasound or pass.
- Bearings. Spin every pivot, every wheel. Notchy = €100 of new bearings.
- Price. A 2-year-old bike sells for 55–65% of original RRP if clean and serviced. Anything above that and you should be buying new.
Where to actually buy in Ireland and the UK
- Local bike shop — best service relationship long-term. Worth a small premium.
- Chain Reaction Cycles / Wiggle — UK online, good for Vitus and Nukeproof house brands.
- Tredz / Leisure Lakes / Cycle Surgery — UK chains, ship to IE.
- Canyon / YT / Commencal — direct-to-consumer, more bike per euro, no LBS support.
- Cycle to Work scheme (IE) — €1,500/year tax-free under the BIK rules; ask your employer.